Today the satnav said it was 11 hours drive to Cherbourg, and we drove all day and the sat nav still says 9 hours. How do we do that?

We didn’t do much other that drive either. We stopped at a LIDL for supplies, and had a two hour nap somewhere, but that was about it.

But we did find a really nice free spot to camp. It’s just on the outskirts of a town and it overlooks farmland. And there are flushing toilets with seats on! And we’re the only ones here! It’s great.

And, I’m loving that it is so much cooler. Still 30 degrees, but that feels like bliss. We were able to sit out in the full sun and not swelter

And in the night it actually got cold. It was 27 degrees in the van when we went to bed around 10pm, but in the night I was actually reaching for a blanket. It was lovely! But… the temperates are creeping up again on the weekend and 38 is forecast again for Monday. So we ain’t sticking around!

Being back in France feels a bit like being home. It’s familiar and just feels easier. The roads aren’t so mountain-ness and squiggly and it seems easier to find the roads we like.

We’re still taking the back roads but heading north to Cherbourg before the next heat wave hits on the weekend.

But it’s been absolutely beautiful with the weather today. A high of 30 and it felt so refreshing for a change. All that cloying heat has moved off to Poland and Russia for the moment.

It’s funny though as our habit has been to drive until late (9pm) to avoid the heat but we realised we didn’t have to do that today. So at 5pm, I found a place for us to stop in a small village. It’s quite nice as we’re overlooking a little farm with goats and donkeys.

We took at walk into the neat little village which has buildings from 12th-14^th century. And the first night markets of the year were on, so that was an added bonus!

There were loads of wonky old chocolate ripple buildings and the square was already buzzing with people. We took a walk around the food offerings. There was snails, rotisserie chicken, salads, chips, meat being fried fresh, crepes and fresh strawberries. The snails smelled delicious, oozing in all their garlicky goodness, but the thought of it put me off.

We decided on Chicken and chips, and a couple of zero beers and sat and enjoyed the ambience.

There were a lot of English people here, the most I have seen since we left England! I reckon the ratio must have been about 50:50 French to English speaking.

All in all a great day and a great find.

We stayed another day at the hotel as we didn’t feel like moving. It was raining too. You might think that would cool it down, but it just made it more humid! We haven’t had rain since… well the last time we were in France. We didn’t actually have any rain the entire time we were in Spain and Portugal!

We didn’t do much. I tried to get some editing done. We took a short walk around the town. We went out for dinner. At the same restaurant we are at in 2018! We are creatures of habit. I didn’t choose the duck gizzard salad this time. Instead I had confit de canard and Mike had a massive steak. It must have been 500g of steak! And he ate it all!

We followed up with a crème brulee. Well, we are in France.

Today we started our drive over the Pyrenees and it was a beautiful drive. We stopped about halfway up at a swimming hole. The water was coming straight out of the mountains and had been dammed to create a swimming area.

Of course it was hot so I had to go in. The water was absolutely freezing but gloriously refreshing. We spent a bit of time here and had our lunch and it was nice to sit for a while.

Then we continued on up the Pyrenees. The road eventually turned into a very narrow and winding road (nothing new there) but thankfully not a lot of traffic coming down.

At the top was amazing 360 degree views over the Pyrenees. There were so many wild horses up there, just hanging around posing for photos. They were really cute and dark brown with blonde mains. And there were even a few young ones. I asked Mike why there were so many, and he said they are probably farming them to eat. 

We spent about an hour at the top as it was a lot cooler at 1500m. Then we had to head down and this was very steep and windy. But by this point we are used to it.

We knew we probably wouldn’t be stopping until 8 or 9pm due to the heat, so we took our time. We found a nice spot by a lake at around 8pm which would have been perfect. Then I saw the GR65 signs and realised we had walked through here on the French camino. I don’t know how we keep stumbling on these places!

There were a few goats hanging around which made me a little nervous. It was an entire family. There was grandpa goat, mum and dad goat and 2 baby goats. They were really cute. But when they started nibbling at our van we decided to leave.

I saw there was a camping car place in Aire sur L’Adore. I remember this place well from the camino. We met our sisters there and said goodbye to Susan. And we ate duck gizzards for dinner.

It was about 9pm by the time we arrived and a very sticky hot. We found the camping car place, which was free, but it didn’t have a very nice vibe. There seemed to be a few squatters there. It would have been fine, but too hot to sit around. So we headed for the same hotel we stayed at on Camino, just across the river.

There was good parking outside and it was reasonably priced, and it seemed we were lucky to get in. They only had 2 rooms left, and she was about to lock up.

After checking in we wandered down to the river to watch the sunset. But we were a little late. The photos still looked good though. The temperature sign said it was still 35 degrees! At 9pm!

Then we watched the thunderstorms roll in from the window of our hotel. I’m not sure if it rained overnight or not, but it was lighting up the sky. The weather over the next few days is supposed to cool down to the low 30’s and high 20s, so hopefully that will make it bearable

We didn’t leave our hotel until the 12 o’clock checkout time. We thought we’d enjoy the A/C for as long as possible!

The thought of navigating the city to look at the hanging houses didn’t appeal either, so we just got outta there!

It was a beautiful drive today through a massive gorge with towering rocks either side. 

It went on forever.We spent a lot of the day at altitude too, so it wasn’t quite as hot. Still 32 degrees, but that is bearable now.

But then we came off the mountain and it was back to 38 degrees. So we kept on driving.

There were quite a few really straight roads that looked like Roman roads. And so many pristine castles along the way. And houses built into the hills. It was really neat drive.

We looked at a couple of places to stop, but at that heat it was too hot. At 7.30pm, we found a hotel which looked quite nice overlooking an old town, but it was locked and nobody was on reception. It looked like one of those places you had to book online and get a code. It seemed like too much effort. So we carried on driving.

We are heading towards the Pyrenees, and I really didn’t want to start driving over a montain pass at this time of day. But Mike ensured me he was fine.

At 8.30pm we made it to another town, but it was still stifling hot. And the only hotel looked a bit dodgy. So we kept driving.

Then, at 9pm, I saw another place in a town. There were two other campervans parked there and it looked fine. Still hot, but the sun had gone behind the buildings so we were in shade. And there was a lovely view from our open doors at the rear.

You’re not supposed to take your chairs out at places like this, but everyone else was. And it was way too hot to sit inside. So we sat out the back of the van stealth like and admired the view of the mountains.

A few more campervans came in while we were sat there. We had a couple of false starts at going to bed. At 10.30pm Mike tried first. He lasted 10 minutes before he fell out of the van again, panting.

I tried at 11pm. Nope, not happening! Now I know why Spanish people don’t go to bed before midnight.

I’ve been carrying strawberry ice blocks in our freezer, so we had ate of those and that seemed to cool us down a bit. And I wet my buff and used it to cool me off. By midnight it was still 32 degrees inside the van, but we couldn’t stay awake any longer.

By 3am, a cool breeze came in through our roof vent and it was bliss!

We finally left the nudist colony after 3 relaxing days. The heatwave was due to break and it seemed like a good time to make a run for it towards France.

We drove most of the day and it was quite nice. We stopped at a town of Cuenca and headed straight for a hotel.

There was one on the outskirts of town with safe parking for Bertie. It was nice to have the relief of aircon again.

This town is famous for hanging houses, apparently hanging off a cliff. Maybe we’ll take a look tomorrow.

We are not resort people. We overlook the pool from our balcony and it’s funny watching what goes on. Everyone is heading to breakfast but on their way, they put their towels out on the pool recliners to save them. We even saw run guy running to get his spot for the day.

As a result, when we go down to the pool, there are hundreds of chairs with towels on them, but nobody using them. And trying to find a recliner is near impossible. I think the whole situation is weird, who wants to sit by the pool all day? And if you’re not using it, take your towel with you! Geez!

Today I woke up feeling lousy, with a sore throat and absolutely exhausted, probably from my late night. Plus we haven’t been eating properly. So I spent the day taking it easy, trying to get some editing done but not getting very far.

That evening we decided to eat out. There is a buffet at the hotel and for 24 euros it seemed like good value as it also included drinks. Thankfully this is another hotel rule. You must be dressed for all eating areas. Thankfully, as I can’t imagine how naked at a buffet could pass hygiene standards!

I was so hungry I ate two giant plates of food, followed by desert. I think I really need to start eating properly again.

The day started with booking another night at the hotel. Thankfully our room was available again. She said this hotel is always full!

There are a few rules to staying at this hotel. Everyone has to wear clothes between 8pm and 8am, and you can’t wear any clothing into the pool. But you can wander the streets and the beach with nothing on. Weird huh?

At 9pm we took a nice stroll along the beach, the mediterranean pounding on the shore. It was too rough to swim, but we paddled our feet and the water was really warm. 

But by 10am, it was hot! So we found a shaded spot by the pool then spent another hour sitting.

I’m not sure how we do it, but we always seem to arrive somewhere during a traditional festival. Earlier in the day, I saw them setting up a huge bonfire with what looked like a pile of old rubbish ready to burn. It turned out it was for San Juan, a midsummer festival celebrated on the night of June 23. Traditionally, people gather around bonfires, enjoy fireworks and parties, and burn old belongings as a symbol of leaving the past behind.

The hotel hosted a beach party that started at 10pm with a live band and dancing. Then, at midnight, they set off a fireworks display before lighting the bonfire on the beach. It was really cool to see bonfires stretching all the way along the shoreline.

As a result, we didn’t get to bed before 1.30am.

Today was brutal. We’d had a pretty lousy sleep sweltering in the van, so we headed off at 9am to try and avoid the heat. But obviously it was already hot. There were some Dolmens, which are neolithich underground burial chambers we wanted to go to. 

The first challenge was getting there. It was only 5.5 kms, but Google told me there was a quicker route only 3km away. I should have known better but I think the lack of sleep was affecting my judgement. Next minute we are navigating horrendously narrow streets inside the old town and it was terrifying.

We managed to get out and followed the main roads. Somehow it took us 30 minutes to drive 5.5 kms. And do you know what the worst part is? We got there and it was closed! Monday’s are a closed day for museums. Doh.

So then I asked AI where we could go to avoid the heat. He said the mountains. So, off we went, driving some more narrow and terrifying roads, but this time with lots of idiots on them. It was a beautiful drive though.

I navigated to a campsite with sounded really cool. They bring you tapas when you order a drink, and they also have a pool. But when we got out of the car, the shock was unbearable.

It was 45 degrees, by far the hottest of anywhere we had been. The wind felt like it was a burning fire! There was no relief even in the shade. It turned out, even though we are up in the mountains, it was in a valley and the hot air was trapped there getting hotter and hotter. It was awful and I couldn’t wait to get out.

So I asked AI again, and he said, go higher! I didn’t want to spend an hour in this heat driving higher and higher and be faced with the same problem. I told him this. So he suggested the coast.

I set the navigation and off we went, up another steep narrow road, this time no safety barrier. I was absolutely terrified. But, we made it to the top, and remarkably it was a bit cooler. Still 37 degrees, but it felt much better. And there was a stunning view over the mountains, which had frikking snow on them! The wind was even blowing from that direction, but it made no difference. The other side was a view of the mediterranean sea.

Anyway, we had a decision to make. I’ve become a bit nervous about narrow winding roads, and the road google was sending us on, was a narrow winding road down to the coast. So I asked google AI as he has been quite helpful. He said ‘Don’t take that road. It’s narrow and steep with no barriers and you will burn your brakes out. Go straight on.’

But straight on was quite a lot longer. And really, would it be any better? So I asked chatGPT. He said “Go for it, you’ll be fine.” I think he knows me better.

Anyway, we went for it. Google AI was half right. It was steep and narrow and scary in places, but there were some barriers that made it feel safer. And Mike knows how to drive steep mountain passes so brakes weren’t an issue. Heck, we drove down the Mesa Verde with no brakes when they failed in America

Anyway, we made it down no problem. But it was still stinking hot at the coast! It was 6pm, so we looked at the campground there, but it was full of permanent vans, and nobody on reception. We parked up and looked at out options. There wasn’t a lot.

Mike has been on about a place on the coast further north that he wanted to go. But we’d have to stay in a hotel there because of the heat. And it was 4 hours away. But it seemed like the best option at this stage as the coast is very busy and there are not any camping grounds.

I plugged Mike’s place into my google and removed avoid motorways. Only 2 hours! So we decided to go for it. We gave up our avoid motorway plan to hopefully find a nice air-conditioned hotel by the beach.

Oh, did I mention why Mike wanted to go there? You’re probably thinking it’s just another nudist beach. But it’s bigger than that. It’s actually a naturist town, where you are allowed to wander around with no clothes on. I know! Not for me, but I’m happy for Mike to be happy.

So, off we went, hurtling along the motorway and I must admit, apart from all the tunnels, it was quite relaxing, not having to navigate or to hang on for deal life going around corners. And two hours later we arrived.

I’d chosen a hotel to stay at as I wanted to make sure there was parking for Bertie. And as it was now 9pm, we needed somewhere with 24 hour reception.

Thankfully there was parking. We went into reception and tried to book a room, but it was full. Eek. She did some stuff on the computer and thankfully there had been a cancellation. But it was a studio rather than a double. But she gave it to us for the same price as a double, so that was nice.

It’s actually a naturist resort, with bars, entertainment and a pool. But there are rules, but I’ll mention more on that in tomorrows blog.

Our room is expensive, but still quite nice, with a balcony overlooking the pool, a big room, and a kitchen. I figure most of our accommodation has been free on this trip, so paying for a couple of nights won’t hurt.

Europe is experiencing a massive heat wave at the moment, but it is supposed to ease off a bit on Thursday. So we’re hoping to stay a few days. But we have to check in each morning to see if there has been a cancellation.

Mike can have his naked time, and I can spend time editing my videos in a comfort of A/C.

Today was brutal. We’d had a pretty lousy sleep sweltering in the van, so we headed off at 9am to try and avoid the heat. But obviously it was already hot. There were some Dolmens, which are neolithich underground burial chambers we wanted to go to. 

The first challenge was getting there. It was only 5.5 kms, but Google told me there was a quicker route only 3km away. I should have known better but I think the lack of sleep was affecting my judgement. Next minute we are navigating horrendously narrow streets inside the old town and it was terrifying.

We managed to get out and followed the main roads. Somehow it took us 30 minutes to drive 5.5 kms. And do you know what the worst part is? We got there and it was closed! Monday’s are a closed day for museums. Doh.

So then I asked AI where we could go to avoid the heat. He said the mountains. So, off we went, driving some more narrow and terrifying roads, but this time with lots of idiots on them. It was a beautiful drive though.

I navigated to a campsite with sounded really cool. They bring you tapas when you order a drink, and they also have a pool. But when we got out of the car, the shock was unbearable.

It was 45 degrees, by far the hottest of anywhere we had been. The wind felt like it was a burning fire! There was no relief even in the shade. It turned out, even though we are up in the mountains, it was in a valley and the hot air was trapped there getting hotter and hotter. It was awful and I couldn’t wait to get out.

So I asked AI again, and he said, go higher! I didn’t want to spend an hour in this heat driving higher and higher and be faced with the same problem. I told him this. So he suggested the coast.

I set the navigation and off we went, up another steep narrow road, this time no safety barrier. I was absolutely terrified. But, we made it to the top, and remarkably it was a bit cooler. Still 37 degrees, but it felt much better. And there was a stunning view over the mountains, which had frikking snow on them! The wind was even blowing from that direction, but it made no difference. The other side was a view of the mediterranean sea.

Anyway, we had a decision to make. I’ve become a bit nervous about narrow winding roads, and the road google was sending us on, was a narrow winding road down to the coast. So I asked google AI as he has been quite helpful. He said ‘Don’t take that road. It’s narrow and steep with no barriers and you will burn your brakes out. Go straight on.’

But straight on was quite a lot longer. And really, would it be any better? So I asked chatGPT. He said “Go for it, you’ll be fine.” I think he knows me better.

Anyway, we went for it. Google AI was half right. It was steep and narrow and scary in places, but there were some barriers that made it feel safer. And Mike knows how to drive steep mountain passes so brakes weren’t an issue. Heck, we drove down the Mesa Verde with no brakes when they failed in America

Anyway, we made it down no problem. But it was still stinking hot at the coast! It was 6pm, so we looked at the campground there, but it was full of permanent vans, and nobody on reception. We parked up and looked at out options. There wasn’t a lot.

Mike has been on about a place on the coast further north that he wanted to go. But we’d have to stay in a hotel there because of the heat. And it was 4 hours away. But it seemed like the best option at this stage as the coast is very busy and there are not any camping grounds.

I plugged Mike’s place into my google and removed avoid motorways. Only 2 hours! So we decided to go for it. We gave up our avoid motorway plan to hopefully find a nice air-conditioned hotel by the beach.

Oh, did I mention why Mike wanted to go there? You’re probably thinking it’s just another nudist beach. But it’s bigger than that. It’s actually a naturist town, where you are allowed to wander around with no clothes on. I know! Not for me, but I’m happy for Mike to be happy.

So, off we went, hurtling along the motorway and I must admit, apart from all the tunnels, it was quite relaxing, not having to navigate or to hang on for deal life going around corners. And two hours later we arrived.

I’d chosen a hotel to stay at as I wanted to make sure there was parking for Bertie. And as it was now 9pm, we needed somewhere with 24 hour reception.

Thankfully there was parking. We went into reception and tried to book a room, but it was full. Eek. She did some stuff on the computer and thankfully there had been a cancellation. But it was a studio rather than a double. But she gave it to us for the same price as a double, so that was nice.

It’s actually a naturist resort, with bars, entertainment and a pool. But there are rules, but I’ll mention more on that in tomorrows blog.

Our room is expensive, but still quite nice, with a balcony overlooking the pool, a big room, and a kitchen. I figure most of our accommodation has been free on this trip, so paying for a couple of nights won’t hurt.

Europe is experiencing a massive heat wave at the moment, but it is supposed to ease off a bit on Thursday. So we’re hoping to stay a few days. But we have to check in each morning to see if there has been a cancellation.

Mike can have his naked time, and I can spend time editing my videos in a comfort of A/C.